No Go on Biarchedi I

Alpine style Karakorum
The highest point reached on Biarchedi by Dujmovits and Hansen. Photo: Ralf Dujmovits

The relentless bad weather in the Karakorum has spelled the end of Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen’s attempt on unclimbed Biarchedi I (6,810m).

The climbers progressed without fixed ropes or camps, completely on their own, moving on unknown terrain toward a remote summit. A good weather window — six days, Dujmovits estimated — was essential.

“With a forecast of four-and-a-half days of good weather, we headed up,” he wrote. “But the snow started again after only one day, and our good weather window was shortened to two-and-a-half days — not nearly what we needed.

“After an additional 30-40 cm of new snow, we headed down, bringing all of our things with us from our high point at 5,650m,” Ralf Dujmovits said.

The climber didn’t hide his disappointment at the end of their expedition. “[We] have invested so much time, energy, and money into such a trip, only to be shut down by almost three weeks of bad weather,” he said.

For those who have followed the expedition, however, the pair has shown an example of the Karakorum’s potential for lightweight, creative alpinism.


About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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27 days ago

A beautiful attempt despite the disappointment dealt by the weather. Bravi!

Benny Smith
Benny Smith
26 days ago

I like their style and I am sure they will be back. As they have explored some of the Uncharted terrain in the mountain, perhaps a success will be possible in better weather next year