Japanese Bag First Ascent of Jarkya Himal Peak

May 13, 2026 Angela Benavides Alpine style | Himalaya

Three Japanese climbers at dinner in a BC tent. — The Japanese trio carbo loads in Base Camp some days ago in preparation for their big climb. Photo: Japan Alpine Club

Masayuki Takenaka, Tatsuro Sugimoto, and Ryota Nomura of Japan did the first ascent of Jarkya Himal’s main peak (6,473m), located near Manaslu, at around noon local time on May 11.

Some days earlier, the team also summited the unclimbed east peak of Jarkya Himal (meaning Jarkya Massif), also known as Gyala Peak (6,363m). The climbers then returned to their Camp 2 and prepared to attempt the main Jarkya summit from that point.

The team told the Japan Alpine Club that they reached Base Camp safely today. No further details on the climb are currently available.

Three climbers smile and pose by a chorten in a barren landscape.

The Japanese team, back in Base Camp after their first ascent of Jarkya Himal. Photo: Japan Alpine Club

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.

Also on Explorersweb

A lonely climber on a glacier, with an icefall marking a col between to mixed mountain faces.