Japanese Bag First Ascent of Gyala Peak Near Manaslu

Masayuki Takenaka, 36, Tatsuro Sugimoto, 37, and Ryota Nomura, 31 of Japan have just bagged their first — but likely not their last —  first ascent of the season in the Manaslu area.

The experienced trio’s main goal is 6,473m Jarkya Himal, but they also obtained a permit for nearby unclimbed Gyala Peak, which they summited on Monday morning.

A climber on a lonely, snowy mountain, with the summit far away.

The Japanese team on their way to Gyala Peak. Photo: Japan Alpine Club

 

Details are scarce, but the threesome reached the 6,363m summit from Camp 2, where they returned afterward to rest. According to a short update from the Japan Alpine Club, the team will next head up adjacent Jarkya Himal from Camp 2.

It is a long way to the summit, and the climbers will need a lengthy weather window for this second push. It is not clear whether they’ll retreat to Base Camp to wait or if they’ll remain at Camp 2.

Sketch map of Gyala Peak and Jarkya Himal. Photo: Japan Alpine Club

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.