Today has been the busiest day of the season so far on the summit of Everest. Summiters include most of the dozens and dozens who clogged the route between Camp 3 and Camp 4 yesterday, plus those who delayed their Tuesday summit plans.
Although we can’t provide a reliable number, the final tally today could be well over 200. For comparison, the highest number of climbers to summit Everest in a single day was on May 23, 2019, with 354.
One no-oxygen, unsupported summit
Everyone summited, supported by Sherpa guides and supplementary oxygen, except for one climber: Marcelo Segovia of Ecuador, who reached the top today after climbing independently and without bottled oxygen. We are waiting for details. Segovia was making his second attempt after a first try last year. He left Base Camp for the summit on Sunday.
Several factors contributed to the high summit rates today. First of all, the weather and conditions on the route were close to ideal, according to the first reports from the mountain. Second, as confirmed by Everest skier Bartek Ziemski, the route to the summit was nearly empty yesterday. Those who waited in Camp 4 for better wind conditions joined the huge crowds that lined up between Camps 3 and 4.
Climbers with their headlamps cross the Geneva Spur toward the summit of Everest today. Photo: 8K Expeditions
Teams are posting lists of summiters, while the local press is highlighting the usual records by age, nationality, number of Everest summits, etc.
Today’s summits began between 4-5 am, still before dawn, as climbers tried to hasten their departure times from Camp 4 to avoid traffic jams as much as possible.
As we write this story, other teams have already left Camp 4 to reach the summit tomorrow. Summit Force, for instance, is on the way up with 28 climbers.
A hard descent
Climbers are reporting a slow pace, both to the summit and on the way down, when climbers are most tired. For example, Bianca Adler, the youngest Australian at age 18, summited today. She said that the way up had been okay, but the descent was tough. According to the latest news, she stopped to rest a while at Camp 4 before planning to proceed to Camp 2.
Most summiters today had that same plan, except those combining Everest and Lhotse: They rest at Camp 4 while breathing oxygen between the two summit pushes.
Reaching Camp 2 today was also the aim of Romanian sea-to-summiter Madalin Cristea, who topped out at 6 am. The summit marks the halfway point for Cristea. She cycled to Everest from the Bay of Bengal, and intends to return the same way.
Crevasse rescue
Most mountain accidents happen on the way down, and while Everest has a well-packed trail fixed with safety ropes, the route is not exempt from danger. IFMGA guide Ashok Lama has posted a video of a climber, Upasana Gurung, who was rescued on Monday after falling in a crevasse between Camp 1 and Camp 2:
Gurung fell nearly 50m but suffered only minor injuries, according to the Everest Chronicle. She was airlifted to the hospital yesterday.
Lhotse no-O2
On neighboring Lhotse, James McManus of Ireland reached the summit without using supplemental oxygen, supported by Chhiring Dhenduk Bhote.
Kristin Harila of Norway hopes to do the same tomorrow, supported by Pansang Rinzee and Mingtemba Sherpa. Lenka Polakova and Jan Polacek of Czechia are also attempting Lhotse no-O2, but we have no further summit news yet.
Base Camp almost deserted
The summit wave today may let other teams that have chosen to wait for the second half of this week to summit with smaller crowds. Forecasts are not 100% clear, but it now seems the good weather may last a few more days. Most of those patient remaining teams are currently waiting in Camp 2 and Camp 3.
Meanwhile, Base Camp is virtually deserted, except for a handful of climbers hoping to summit both without oxygen and Sherpa support. Among them are the FKT contenders, Tyler Andrews of the U.S. and Karl Egloff of Ecuador. Saulius Damulevicius of Lithuania is there too, but not for long: He is starting up tonight without supplemental oxygen, hoping to reach the summit on May 25-26.
Justin Sackett of the U.S. (with Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa) is also climbing without bottled oxygen. Today, he spent his second day at Camp 3:
