It took them five hard days, but Yudai Suzuki and Kei Narita of Japan have made a first ascent of the north face of 6,384m Nevado Ausangate in the Peruvian Andes.
They named the route “Japones Directo” (1,100m, 5.10a, WI6).

On the new route. Photo: Yudai Suzuki/Kei Narita
Each of those five days on the mountain presented different problems, including overhanging ice and deep, soft snow at altitude.
“It is definitely the most challenging climbing of my life,” said Suzuki.

During the ascent. Photo: Yudai Suzuki/Kei Narita