Summit Day on Everest, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga

Summit news started very early today, with news of successes on Everest, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga. For now, it’s quantitative information: lists of names and numbers. Hopefully, we will hear some details once the summiters are safely down.

Everest

On Everest, big teams outfitted by Climbing the Seven Summits, Seven Summit Treks, and Adventure Peak have reached the top of the world. They report excellent weather.

Eight members in the all-Black U.S. team Full Circle Everest also summited this morning, together with eight Sherpas. Eighteen-year-old American Lucy Westlake also summited. It is still too soon to confirm, but today’s Everest summits should be somewhere between 60 and 100. The Seven Summit Treks team alone lists 16 clients and 23 Sherpas on top today.

Most of today’s summiters are back to at least Camp 4 at the South Col, where a new wave of climbers are preparing to go up. Photo: Climbing the Seven Summits

 

Some teams at Camp 4 who had planned a rest day, such as Furtenbach Adventures, have decided to set off toward the top tonight, to take advantage of the “perfect conditions”. Other teams, such as Lakpa Sherpa’s 8K Expeditions and Nirmal Purja’s Elite Exped have started their summit pushes today.

There is also belated news from the Return to Everest team. This group, supported by National Geographic, guided by Pete Athans and Dawa Yangzum, and featuring expert meteorologists from the U.S. and Nepal, is in charge of repairing the meteorological station located at the Balcony (8,400m). The Alpimon blog reports that besides fixing the station, they also summited two days ago.

David Goettler was also on Everest today, avoiding the ropes and using no O2. Today, he touched the top of the Geneva Spur at 7,900m, then returned to Base Camp. That was his final acclimatization round before going all the way to the summit.

Makalu: summits, crowds, and a brave attempt

On the usually windswept Makalu, conditions were not ideal. Despite the very cold wind, outfitters are reporting summits.

Alpenglow guides Topo Mena, Ngima Sherpa, and Nawang Sherpa, along with the team’s client, reached the top at 5:30 am. A large Seven Summit Treks group, including Uta Ibrahini of Kosovo, Reza Shahlaee of Iran, and Viridiana Alvarez of Mexico also summited.

Also successful were Grace Tseng of Taiwan and Dolma Outdoor’s Nyma Gyalzen.

But not everybody reached their goal. While the big teams on O2 managed to deal with the cold, the low temperatures were too much for Carla Perez, climbing without O2. Still recovering from a relentless cough, the Ecuadorian turned back at the French Couloir.

While bad news for her project of summiting the five highest mountains on Earth without O2, at least she avoided crowds on the summit ridge. Asked about how crowded it was, Adrian Ballinger (coordinating the Alpenglow team from Base Camp) said, “It was challenging, but it worked out.” No injuries or problems have been reported.

Alpenglow team members are now below Camp 3 on their way back to Base Camp. They are not planning to spend the night at any of the higher camps.

Kangchenjunga

Adriana Brownlee and Gelje Sherpa summited Kangchenjunga, two weeks after ticking off Annapurna. They were together with Josette Valloton of Switzerland, Dorota Lidia Samocko of Poland, Chhangba Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa.

Adriana Brownlee on Kangchenjunga. Photo: Seven Summit Treks

 

Wilco van Rooijen, climbing without O2, and Cas van de Gevel, had to turn around. Van Rooijen is safe in Base Camp but says that he will share details after some rest.

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!


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frederick
frederick
13 days ago

Wow the ladies are really ticking off these mountains congrats to them all.

Peter Flynn
Peter Flynn
13 days ago
Reply to  frederick

With the help of lots of men it should be noted.

Lenore Jones
Lenore Jones
12 days ago
Reply to  Peter Flynn

Almost all of the male clients are also getting help from lots of men, so I fail to see how that’s relevant.

Veda Naidoo
Veda Naidoo
13 days ago

No mention of Nirmal Purja and his @eliteexped team’s summit of Kanchenjunga? Nimsdai summitted without supplemental oxygen and within two days of leaving base camp – surely this merits reporting?

Jerry Kobalenko
Admin
13 days ago
Reply to  Veda Naidoo

We covered that as soon as it happened, although Elite Exped gave no official announcement until well after the summit. https://explorersweb.com/everest-summits-nuptse-failure-dhaulagiri-advance/ And Purja only claimed today that he summited without O2.

LZF
LZF
13 days ago

Lucky Number 7 Today. Four lady climbers climber their seventh 8000er this day: Flutura Ibrahimi, Viridiana Chavez, Josette Valloton and Grace Tseng. Congratulations for them.

Jmaf
Jmaf
9 days ago

Any updates on the team that was working a new route around the icefall? Any progress there or have they bailed?