Winter Pakistan: Gottler and Barmasse to Attempt Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face

Finally, there’s news about the team heading for 8,126m Nanga Parbat. Led by German David Gottler and including Herve Barmasse, Mike Arnold, and Pakistan’s Kudrat Ali, the climbers will aim for the mighty Rupal Face. This is a mind-blowing 4,600m high, south-facing wall that has never been climbed in winter before, @KrisAnnapurna reports. Even in summer, the wall challenges the very best. It is considered the highest mountain face in the world.

The climbers are already in Pakistan and should reach Base Camp later this week, according to the outfitter, Alpine Adventure Guides.

The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. Photo: Bernhard Krainer


Gottler and Barmasse have done some remarkable climbs together, including a fast alpine-style push on Shishapangma’s South Face in 2017. In 2019 and 2021, Gottler attempted Everest without O2. On these occasions, he was without Barmasse, who refuses to climb anywhere with fixed ropes around. On his latest Everest attempt, Gottler teamed up with Kilian Jornet instead. Jornet is definitely not part of the team this time.

American Mike Arnold is an IFMGA guide based in the Italian Alps. He has over a dozen expeditions to Alaska and South America. In 2017, he made a first ascent of Chugima Go, a 6,000m peak in Nepal.

The team seems likely to stay off social media throughout the expedition, judging from their general silence so far.

Meanwhile, at least one detail has emerged about the Japanese expedition before Kazuya Hiraide‘s rescue. On December 17, the two Japanese did summit the unclimbed 6,020m peak. It remains unknown how far they reached on Karun Koh before Hiraide suffered frostbite.

Peaks targeted by Hiraide and Mitoro. Photo: Carlos Garranzo/Facebook