The Italian website Montagna Magica reports that China has agreed to give Nirmal Purja a permit to climb Shishapangma, the closed Tibetan peak that is the only remaining 8,000’er in the Nepali’s remarkable attempt to summit all 14 in seven months.
Federico Bernardi, who broke the exciting news, says that one of his sources was diplomatic and the other was part of the Himalayan Database team. The story has since been confirmed by The Himalayan Times.
Dawa Sherpa of Climbalaya Treks says that he received a message from the China and Tibet Mountaineeering Association that Purja and his team will receive a special permit, thanks to a request by Nepal’s government. Since the Chinese embassy in Nepal remains closed for a week to mark 70 years of Communist rule, the permitting process will begin after October 8.
Purja is currently on the way back to Kathmandu after topping out on Manaslu last week. If he succeeds in climbing Shishapangma, he will have bested the previous fastest times, set by Kim Chang-ho of Korea in 2013 and Jerzy Kukuczka of Poland in 1987, by over seven years.