Holecek Tackles Baruntse’s Sheer NW Face

The Czech expedition's Base Camp in front of Baruntse's Northwest Face. Photo: Marek Holecek

Marek Holecek has been in Nepal for weeks, but the Czech climber kept his goal secret until now.

“I am about to set off on a new route to the Northwest Face of Baruntse,” he said on Facebook.

His climbing partner is Radoslav Groh. Holecek says that Groh was the only one who dared to tackle the terrible face. Because terrible it is:  A two-kilometer high wall that ends at the 7,100m summit.

“He nominated himself and was the only candidate to the position,” said Holecek. “The rest were, so to say, nervous about the place.”

Two other Czechs will join them: Pavel Hodek, who will accompany the duo on their acclimatization ascent up the normal route on Baruntse, and photographer Tomas Galasek.

Holecek previously won the Piolet d’Or for his 2018 alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I with frequent partner Zdenek Hak.

Piolet d’Or winner and Himalayan badass Marek Holecek. Photo: Marek Holocek

As usual, Holecek will climb alpine style: in a single push, non-stop.

They have no cook, no base camp staff, no porters. “Apart from the yeti, grouse, and small vermin, there is no other living soul here,” Holecek said about their tiny base camp near Chukung.

The imposing Northwest Face of Baruntse. Photo: Marek Holecek

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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m.p.
m.p.
5 months ago

Please, correct the name in the title.

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jmaf
jmaf
5 months ago

Unsupported, new route, dangerous, difficult, and just plain awesome. Good luck to these two.

+2
Crq4
Crq4
5 months ago

Mountaineering is alive!

+1
RAS
RAS
5 months ago

These photos are taken from the southwest side of Baruntse showing the SE Ridge down to the West Col. The face is the WSW face of Baruntse.

+1
damiengildea
Editor
5 months ago
Reply to  RAS

Yes, I would have just said W face, and Chukhung is over the Amphu Lapcha from where these photos were taken, so no place for a BC. But I have seen this mixed up elsewhere in MH’s dispatches, not just here. I think it needs some clearing up.

+1
OldHikerDude
OldHikerDude
5 months ago
Reply to  RAS

This is correct. Photo location on G-Earth;  27°50’27.23″N, 86°56’59.65″E. I was confused, too. Are they climbing from the North, or from the south? It looks to be an interesting story to follow, anyway. Holocek knows how to get things done and bring home a summit.

+1
MuddyBoots
MuddyBoots
5 months ago

Sincere wishes for the success and safety of this adventurous team!

+1
daniela
Daniela Teixeira
5 months ago

REAL climbing at last!!! Goodspeed!

+2
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