Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat: Who’s Where, Right Now

Position of the Czech-Slovak team on Gasherbrum II yesterday.

This season, the uncrowded Gasherbrums should feature some good action. Although a group of Pakistani climbers hired by some teams is fixing ropes, the lack of big commercial teams should result in only some protected sections rather than an entirely trussed-up mountain.

Some days ago, we published Gasherbrum I: A Climber’s Guide. Before we do the same for Gasherbrum II, it helps to look at all the teams present on the two mountains and show the links to keep track of them. Beyond social media, the key information tool is their satellite trackers. SPOT and InReach devices have become essential in high-altitude expeditions, but most of all in the Karakorum. The Gasherbrums, in particular, are out of reach of the new satellite-phone antenna installed at Concordia. All communications remain via satellite-based devices.

We will also update on the only team on Nanga Parbat, further west, in Pakistan’s Himalaya. Tomorrow, we will do the same for K2 and Broad Peak.

Gasherbrum II: Up the Banana Ridge

Poland’s Beskid Expedition team of Piotr Krzyzowski and Radoslaw Wozniak are leading the way on Gasherbrum II. Yesterday, they left Camp 2 and crossed the Banana Ridge (so-called because of its curved shape) with two tents and food for four to five days. They described it as a long, tough climb. Check Piotr Krzyzowski’s location here.

A guided Czech-Slovak team also reached Camp 2 yesterday. Members include Pavel Laznicka, Michal Vesely, Filip Vitek, Martin Ksandr, Vit Dubec, Dan Born, Jozef Zajac, Petr Glettnik, Pavel Burda, and Lukas Beranek. They too commented on this difficult section. Here is their current location.

Gasherbrum II. Photo: The Altitude Team

Slightly behind, The Altitude Team left Gasherbrum II’s Camp 1 today for Camp 2. They reached it this afternoon. Check Lluis Cortadellas’ tracker. Other team members: Ferran Perez, Ignasi Sala, Albert Villarroya, and Gonzalo Fernandez.

Arman Shahpari and Milad Keshavaraz of Iran reached Camp 1, then returned to BC earlier this week, according to Fars Mountains.

Also on GII: Pakistan’s Sirbaz Khan (on his own 14×8,000’ers quest) with Ali Raza and young climbers Naila Kiani, Fatima Gul, and Sohail Sakhi. The team has not reported in since reaching Base Camp at the end of June. Sirbaz Khan’s tracker puts him still at BC.

Hidden Peak and Double-headers

Italians Mario Vielmo and Marco Confortola, together with Pakistanis Hassan Jan (summiter of all Pakistan’s 8,000’ers) and Fida Ashur are all aiming for Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). They too last reported from Base Camp.

Italian guides Marco Confortola (left) and Mario Vielmo. Photo: Marco Confortola

The Altitude Team and the Italians originally announced that they would attempt the GI-GII double-header. In fact, it is not yet clear who might try for both these two highest Gasherbrums.

Most teams usually focus on one, but it is not unusual for expeditions to get a permit for both, just in case. Some hope that if they reach the summit, they have enough legs left for a quick push on the neighboring peak. Occasionally, individual climbers (especially 14×8,000m collectors) show up in BC and just go for whichever Gasherbrum has better summit options (aka, more fixed ropes).

In the end, however, conditions, the climbers’ strength, and the season’s time limits rarely allow Gasherbrum double-headers. This is especially true if, like this year, big guided teams are not fixing ropes from bottom to top.

Alone on Nanga Parbat

Lolo Gonzalez and Sergio Carrascoso are still fighting conditions alone on Nanga Parbat. On July 6, they broke trail and fixed rope above Camp 1, past a serac to the top of Diama Glacier. But the weather has not improved. More snowfall drove them back to Camp 1. The team’s tracker is here.

Nanga Parbat, impressive as ever. Photo: Andalucia 8000 team.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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F v
F v
18 days ago

Thanks Angela for the ineresting posts. Looking forward to k2 and BP update tomorrow, they have a very good weather window at this moment.

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Apy
Apy
17 days ago

Thanks Angela for this update. But there are more climbers on the Gasherbrums than those you mention. The Czech Jan Matiasek, the French pianist Philippe Genin, the Romanians Laura Mares and Justin Ionesco, the Czech Dismanteam composed of Marek Disman, Roman Balada and Karolina Grohova should already be climbing though admittedly they have not given a position. Latest news from Serge Hardy is C1 between G1 and G2. And the French quatuor of Tiphaine Duperrier, Boris Langenstein, Aurelia Lanoe and Guillaume Pierrel reported having climbed the French Spur GII till 6600m. Also the latest position of Marco Confortola on GI… Read more »

Apy
Apy
17 days ago

Thanks Angela. I don’t want to override your posts which are the best of all the other commentators’ and I always await them with excitement. But as you appeared to want to be comprehensive, I thought I would add the little extra info I had. I do agree on the time lag regarding the position of the climbers. Looking forward to your K2/BP update. Regards

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Vlad
Vlad
17 days ago

Hi Angela. Two more romanians on G2: Paul Diac and Iulian Costan. They climbed to C2. They post updates on the Facebook page “Expeditie Gasherbrum 2 021”

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Apy
Apy
17 days ago
Reply to  Vlad

Thanks Vlad. Very interesting posts with a lot of information including on other members climbing G2.

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Apy
Apy
15 days ago

The French quartet summited G1 today 11 July.

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Apy
Apy
15 days ago
Reply to  Apy

Read G2

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