Aoki and Mitoro Turn Back on Nilgiri North

Nilgiri North gave Japanese Tatsuya Aoki and Takuya Mitoro no chance: They had to retreat from 6,600m.

The climbers were attempting a new alpine-style route up the west face of the 7,061m peak in Nepal’s Annapurna region. The pair reached base camp at the end of September. It is not clear what pushed the climbers back, although before the summit push, Aoki mentioned he had stomach problems. They will update once they return home.

Some tents on a meadow with snowy peaks in background.

The Japanese base camp, with Dhaulagiri in the background. Photo: Tatsuya Aoki

 

Nilgiri North is the highest peak of the Nilgiri Himal. Legendary alpinist and Annapurna pioneer Lionel Terray and two Dutch partners first climbed it in 1967. In the 1970s, Japanese expeditions made the first ascents of Nilgiri South and Nilgiri Central. We will post a story about the massif’s fascinating climbing history this weekend.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.