Holecek Tackles Baruntse’s Sheer NW Face

Marek Holecek has been in Nepal for weeks, but the Czech climber kept his goal secret until now.

“I am about to set off on a new route to the Northwest Face of Baruntse,” he said on Facebook.

His climbing partner is Radoslav Groh. Holecek says that Groh was the only one who dared to tackle the terrible face. Because terrible it is:  A two-kilometer high wall that ends at the 7,100m summit.

“He nominated himself and was the only candidate to the position,” said Holecek. “The rest were, so to say, nervous about the place.”

Two other Czechs will join them: Pavel Hodek, who will accompany the duo on their acclimatization ascent up the normal route on Baruntse, and photographer Tomas Galasek.

Holecek previously won the Piolet d’Or for his 2018 alpine-style ascent of the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I with frequent partner Zdenek Hak.

Piolet d’Or winner and Himalayan badass Marek Holecek. Photo: Marek Holocek


As usual, Holecek will climb alpine style: in a single push, non-stop.

They have no cook, no base camp staff, no porters. “Apart from the yeti, grouse, and small vermin, there is no other living soul here,” Holecek said about their tiny base camp near Chukung.

The imposing Northwest Face of Baruntse. Photo: Marek Holecek