Romanians Open New Route on Pumori

Everest Mountain
Romanians New Route on Pumori
Romanians Zsolt Torok (left), Romica Popa and Teofil Vlad pose in front of Pumori's South Face, with the new route they opened drawn in red. Photo: Zsolt Torok

Pumori is a popular spot for Everest Base Camp trekkers, thanks to the stunning views of Everest that it offers from an adjacent bump called the Kala-Patthar, on the South Ridge of Pumori. For climbers, though, Pumori is infamous for the massive avalanches that often roar down its meringue-like southern side. No wonder that, in spite of being among the most Instagrammed peaks in the Himalaya, it is rarely attempted, even less summited, and almost never attempted twice. Romanian Zsolt Torok seems to be an exception: After an adventurous but unsuccessful try last year with Vlad Capusan, Torok returned for a second try this autumn.

Their project went unnoticed until news of their successful climb was posted last week on the social media of Torok and his climbing mates Romica Popa and Teofil Vlad. Despite winds gusting up to 105kph and -27ºC windchill, they reached the 7,165m summit via a new route up the South Face and Ridge.

“We’ve named the new route “Les Voyages du Petit Prince [the Journeys of the Little Prince],” Popa posted.

The team spent two nights high on nearby Lobuche to acclimatize. Then they headed to Pumori and climbed up the South Face to the left of the Scottish route. Their line eventually joined the Ridge at 6,700m, according to PlanetMountain. The team spent five nights bivouacing on the wall, plus a whole day rappeling 1,100m down from the summit. The team has graded the new route as AI (Alpine Ice) 4, R.


About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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