Himalaya quick wrap: Everest paraglide and north side summits, Lhotse rescues, Makalu summits

Posted: May 22, 2011 05:08 pm EDT

(Newsdesk) Here goes a quick heads-up from a busy Himalaya weekend: Strong winds forecast for the period have put some climbers in trouble.

Everest north side summits were reported along with some summits on the south side, there are rescues on Lhotse, summits on Makalu, Mingma's no 14 on Kanch; and a paraglide from Everest to to Namche.

Everest north side summits

Abramov reported that the 7SummitsClub made the first summits on Everest north side. According to Alex, summiteers reached the summit about 3:30 local time yesterday and were guided by Victor Bobok and Irish Noel Hanna. Non-sherpa climbers were Karina Mezova; Andrew Podolyan; Dmitry Sokov; Igor Prinzyuk; Yuri Beloivan; Roman Gretzky and American Christopher Cannizzaro.

Somewhat confusingly, Asian Trekking report their International Dream Everest Expedition members Abdulkhalim Elmezov (Ru) and Ngima Dorjee Sherpa topped out Everest North Side on Friday, 20 May at 06:00 am Nepal Time as the first team. May 21 summiteers were Swiss Ivan Olivier Schmid; Mexican Leonardo Jimenez Fernandez and Austrian Helmut Ortner.

Aussie 14, 8000er Andrew Lock writes he's just about all alone in BC; everyone else is up climbing. Trying to bag the peak without oxygen this time, Andrew wants to maximize his acclimatization before going up.

Everest south side summits and update

Alan Arnette summited Everest from the south side yesterday in a fairly small crowd according to his blog entry; and met three people coming up from the north side on top.

Edurne Pasaban and team aborted their no O2 push on Everest from C4 on Saturday in strong winds. Two of the team Sherpa had suffered respiratory problems the previous night, and were put on O2. Ferran Latorre says the team will hopefully launch a new attempt next week: most probably on May 28-30.

Spanish Unai Llantada summited on oxygen.


Spiking winds were forecast for this weekend. Spanish Carlos Soria and Muktu Sherpa (both on O2) summited Lhotse at 9.20 am, local time, Saturday. Carlos Pauner, Javier Perez, Juanito Oiarzabal, Juanjo Garra and Manolo "Lolo" Gonzalez followed, all without O2. The group was however slow on their way back. Soria and the Sherpa were the only ones back in C4 before nightfall. Lolo didn't return.

Today Argentinean guides Damian Benegas and Matias "Matoco" Erroz moved to Lhotse (apparently on descent from Everest summit). They searched and found Lolo, in a poor state after a night out.

Unable to walk, the extent of his injuries are unknown at this point. The climber was dragged to the fixed ropes and then hauled down by the Argentineans and a Sherpa team. At nightfall today, he was in C3.

In a medical report over satphone from Dr. Antonia Nerin to Barrabes.com it is reported that the rest of the Lhotse summit climbers have reached C2 for the night, several with frostbite and HACE. Hopes are they can be airlifted tomorrow.

IMZ wrote that according to local reports Iranian Husain Bahmanyar summited Lhotse on May 19th.

Everest paraglide

"This must be one of the most amazing flights in history. Not just flying from Everest, but continuing all the way to Namche Bazar," wrote Espen from Norway. "Would be great if you could write something of the trip. Babu is a fantastic person and a great explorer, but not too many have heard of his adventures yet..."

Neither Squash Falconer or Rodrigo Raineri managed to fly; instead Babu Sunuwar and Lakpa Tshering showed up from nowhere!

xcmag.com have a great writeup but here's the short:

29-year-old Nepali tandem paraglider pilot Babu flew 20km+ cross country from Everest summit to Namche on May 21. His 35-year-old mountain guide Lakpa was in the passenger seat.

Babu and Lakpa took off on the north side of the mountain, after going over the top and slightly down the other side. The flight then took them back across the Western Ridge and into the Everest basin, pass Ama Dablam and to Namche airstrip.

The successful flight was reportedly the first leg in a summit-to-sea attempt to fly tandem from Everest and then continue by paraglider, kayak and bike to sea level in Bangladesh.


Others before have paraglided from Everest. In 1988, French climber Jean-Marc Boivin summited Everest from the South Col route and made his descent in 11 minutes in a paraglider. In 1990, Jean-Noël Roche and his son Bertrand (Zéb ) became the first father-and-son-team to reach the top of Everest. They paraglided from the South Col to Base Camp. Zéb was just 17.

Eleven years later, Zéb and his wife Clair scaled Everest from the North and sailed down in a paraglider. The mountain inflated the sail and very quickly the wind carried us off from this mythical place. For a few minutes we transformed into birds. A rapid fall on the western face, then we left full north, in the direction of the Chinese base Camp, said Zeb in his classic Where the Eagles Fly.

And who can forget British Microlight pilot Richard Meredith-Hardy and Italian hang-glider pilot Angelo D'Arrigo.

Best of ExplorersWeb 2004 Awards: Over Everest

Over Everest Birdman Angelo d'Arrigo: The man who climbed the sky


Asim Gupta relayed posts on Philippe Gatta's blog stating the French were first on top this year, and that Swiss Cedric summitted without oxygen.

As for the Russian team, out of nine members Alexi Bolotov, Nikolai Totmiyanin & Israfil Ashurli topped out. Christian Strangl reportedly summitted with them but suffered frostbite.

As for Gavan's team, Mario Panzari has topped out so far.

Azim Qeychisaz from Iran topped out IMZ told ExWeb. Asim Gupta says Azim climbed without oxygen, together with the international expedition, and summitted along with Swiss Guntis Brands, Dawa Sherpa & Mingma Sherpa.

Mingma is thus the first Sherpa to complete all 14 8000ers, Asim pointed out.


There has been some confusion regarding their location but yesterday it was confirmed by Maria Hamor that summit of Makalu (8 463m) was reached Saturday at 1 pm by Slovak Peter Hamor, Romanian Horia Colibasanu and the two Spaniards Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos.

Website links to expeditions:

Everest South Side

Peak Freaks
Jim Williams
Gavin Bate
Adventure Consultants
Michael Ortiz
Alpine Ascents International
David Tait
Endesa Edurne Pasaban
Mountain Trip
Scott Woolums' Blog
Patricio Ramiro Tisalema
Brazilian Climbing & Hang Gliding
"Memories Are Everything"
Enkarterri-Bizkaia Expedition
Int'l Mountain Guides
Altitude Junkies
Asian Trekking
Ferran Latorre
Apa Sherpa Eco Everest
Seth Wolpin
RMI Guides
Mountain Madness
Patagonian Brothers' Blog
Himalayan Ascent
Climbing for a Cause
Himalayan Experience
Kobler & Partner
Dream Guides
Ice 8000
Peak Promotion Nepal
Chris Davenport

Everest North Side:

David Liano
Nick Rice
Spanish Reto Everest 2011
7-Summits Club
Adventure Peaks
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner


Mingma Sherpa
French-Swiss Expedition
Romanian-Polish-Italian Expedition
Cleo Weidlich


Carlos Soria
Ryan Waters Mtn. Professionals
Ryan Waters Dispatches
Juanito Oiarzabal
Carlos Pauner
Alpine Ascents International
Summit Climb
Radek Jaros


Peter Hamor's Slovak Expedition
Horia Colibasanu
Kinga Baranowska
Jagged Globe
Kobler & Partner


South Korean Chang-Ho Kim (no website yet)
Chilean Annapurna Expedition (no website yet)


Manaslu Expedition 2011 toward Freedom (no website yet)
Czech Climbing & Snowboard Expedition
Loben Expeditions


Chilean Female Expedition

Shisha Pangma:

Kobler & Partner
Don Bowie
Amical Alpin
Chilean Andres Claro

Cho Oyu:

Field Touring Alpine
Peak Freak Cho Oyu
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner
#Mountaineering #topstory

Radek Jaros summited Lhotse on May 19 after a difficult 16-hour push. He climbed his 12th 8000er on his own and used no oxygen, webmaster Zbynek Grepl told ExWeb. Back in BC, Jaros has sent out summit images.
Image by Jarek Rados courtesy Jarek Rados, SOURCE
"Both Babu and Lhakpa must have been a great team go get to the summit, organize a TANDEM paraglider, launch it and then thermal ABOVE the summit," said Mal about the duo's Everest scoop last spring.
Image by Babu Sunuwar courtesy Babu Sunuwar, SOURCE