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Himalaya wrap-up: Manaslu and Cho Oyu summits, rescues updates

Posted: Oct 04, 2011 07:19 am EDT

(Angela Benavides) In contrast to last year, Cho Oyu is registering an increasing number of summits this fall. In the midst of all the action though, a sick climber may be in urgent need of help in C2.

Summit news is also arriving from Manaslu. On Shisha climbers aim for the (central?) top today. On Makalu, the exhausted Poles were about to reach C1 by nightfall and dangerous conditions on Dhaulagiri forced Carlos Soria to call off the expedition.

Cho Oyu: More summits - and a rescue

SummitClimb summited yesterday in nice weather, according to leader Arnold Coster (currently in C2). Further summit news are expected today from several climbers who planned to attempt the top. Ferran Latorre and Toni Massagué are in C3 hoping to top-out tomorrow.

Summiteer Elia Saikaly just posted BEAUTIFUL footage shot as he reached the summit Saturday.

During his push, Elia passed two exhausted Spanish climbers going slowly without O2. Elia told them to turn around, and didn't meet them again - until today.

"Neither summited," says Elia. "One of them is safe at ABC. The other is in really bad condition, seemingly in Camp 2." Elia said that 2 Sherpas, one from outfitter Thamserku and the other from Himalayan Guides, went to rescue him but were blocked beneath the Ice Cliff below 7000M due to excess of snow. "Thamserku team leader has just left ABC on another rescue attempt," Elia added.

Makalu rescue update: Long descent goes on

In a previous report today Robert said Sherpas only reached Tomasz and Maciej at 6.30 am, exhausted but descending by themselves. Through the morning, they reached C2 where Artur, his mates and more Sherpas were awaiting, and eventually proceeded further down.

In the latest report from Makalu (5 pm Nepal time) Robert Szymczak reported that Artur Hajzer, Kacper Tekieli, Adam Ciucka, four Sherpas and Maciej Stanczak were close to camp I (6000), all in good condition except for Stanczak who had to be carried because of exhaustion.

"Tomasz Wolfart is below C1 descending with one rescue Sherpa," Robert Szymczak also reported.

Manaslu: Summit news expected today and tomorrow

"We are happy to announce that the Mountain Professionals team has summitted Manaslu and is at this time back down to camp 2," Ryan Waters just reported over Contact5. "We will return to BC tomorrow eager for showers and good food! I" MP summiteers were Marius Holgersen, Chherring Sherpa, Cecilie Skog, Ryan Waters and Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa.

Indian kid climber Arjun topped out at 10 am, according to a stoked mail sent out by his mom.

"He called home at 11:40am," Priya Vajpai wrote. "He said he could not get connectivity from the top so had to descend and then got through to us. He sounded vaaaaaaaary tired. He said this was more difficult than Lhotse in terms of endurance. He has now reached back to camp 3 (7,800meters)."

Arjun was reportedly scheduled for an interview with CNN today. "I would like to take this opportunity to THANK ALL your support and prayers!!!" the mother added, "You are a part of his achievements."

News is expected from other Manaslu teams, joining forces in a massive summit push. HiMex had two groups, one aiming for the top today and a second team following tomorrow.

Juanito Oiarzabal (25x8000ers summited) reported earlier today from C3. "Conditions are good, so tonight we're off to the top." Fellow Spaniards Oscar Cadiach (K2 Magic Line 2004 team leader) and Rosa Fernandez (Breast Cancer survivor) are also pushing for the top.

Altitude Junkies are in C4, preparing to leave for the summit midnight local. Climbers are:

Ian Cartwright & Kami Neru Sherpa
Luidmila Mikhanovskaia & Pasang Wongcho Sherpa
Anne-Mari Hylyranien & Tarke Sherpa
Karel Masek & Chhedar Sherpa
Mark Horrell & Chongba Sherpa
Robert Kay & Pasang Gumba Sherpa
Robin Owens & Sange Sherpa

"We have a rule on our expeditions to not to allow any solo climbing and this includes descending on a summit push or turning around near high camp," Altitude Junkies stated. "We have witnessed many solo climbers descending this season and we wished more expeditions would follow the no solo climbing rule."

Meanwhile, Mal Haskings and his speedfly skiing team are back in BC after acclimatizing up to C3 and having fun flying with their small paraglides above upgoing climbers. Today was one of the brightest, sunniest days in all the season, they said.

Shisha Pangma: News expected

SummitClimb leader Max Kausch reported from C3 yesterday. Conditions (and forecasts) were good and their Sherpas were ready to fix some rope ahead of the team as they all went for the summit today.

Dhaulagiri: Carlos Soria - maybe at 73?

After checking conditions from C1, Carlos Soria and Sito Carcavilla have called their expedition off. "We could reach C2 alright, but conditions beyond are definitely too dangerous," Carlos said. "It is impossible to reach the summit."

At 72, Carlos Soria hoped to turn Dhaulagiri into his 10th main 8000er (plus Shisha central).

Links to fall 2011 Himalaya teams:


Park Young Seok


Artur Hajzer's Winter Himalayan Polish team


Carlos Soria


Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli
Ryan Waters' Mountain Professionals
Altitude Junkies
Alpenglow Expeditions
Rosa Fernandez
Mal Haskings' Speedfly8000

Shisha Pangma:

Cleo Weidlich

Cho Oyu:

Ferran Latorre
Nacho Orviz
Kari Kobler's
Camilo López & Anna Pfaff
Adventure consultants
Jagged Globe
Adventure Lovers
Elia Shaikali's Finding Life
Kheiry Sammakieh's Climb 4 Lebanon
Romanian Expedition

#Mountaineering #topstory

Mountain Professionals team on Manaslu summit some hours ago. Pic sent live over Contact 5.
Image by Ryan Waters courtesy Ryan Waters, SOURCE
Spanish Jose Luis Quintana at 8,000m o Cho Oyu, Saturday Oct 1, 2011.
Image by Elia Saikaly courtesy Elia Saikaly
After Everest, the Indian kid kept climbing.
Image by Arjun Vajpai courtesy Arjun Vajpai
Adventure Lovers team couldn't reach Cho Oyu summit but, before departing for home, posted a cool set of pics, including this one of climbers lining up on Cho Oyu serac band before C2.
courtesy Adventure Lovers, SOURCE
File image of climbers approaching Manaslu summit.
courtesy Alpenglow expeditions, SOURCE