7 Summits 8000ers Adventure Films Adventure Travel Africa Alaska Alaska Alpine style Ama Dablam Amazon Andes Annapurna Annapurna Antarctic Antarctic Archaeology Arctic Arctic Aviation Ballooning BASE jump and Paragliding Big Wall climbing Breaking News Broad Peak Buyers Guides Canoeing & Kayaking Caving Cho Oyu Climate change Climbing COVID-19 Cycling Denali Desert Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri Elbrus Endurance Environment Everest Expeditions Exploration mysteries Explorers First ascents Flying Gasherbrum Gear Geography High altitude skiing Himalaya Hindu Kush History Ice Climbing Indigenous cultures K2 Kangchenjunga Karakorum Kilimanjaro Lhotse Long-distance hiking Long-distance Trekking Makalu Manaslu Manaslu Marathon Medical Misc Sports Mountain Mountaineering Nanga Parbat Natural History Nepal Nuptse Ocean Rowing Oceanography Oceans Patagonia Photos Polar Exploration Polar Research Poles Reviews Rivers Rowing/canoeing Science Sherpa Siberia Skiing Solo South Pole Space Sponsored Content Survival Swimming Tropics Uncategorized Unclimbed Volcanos Weather Wildlife Winter 8000ers Winter Himalaya

Nanga Parbat Basecamps Established, Climbing Begins

Posted: Jan 01, 2015 02:18 pm EST

(By Raheel Adnan) With climbing permit of K2 winter expedition denied, focus shifts to Nanga Parbat where three teams are aiming for first winter ascent of the mountain. The climbers have started reaching Basecamp and setting up higher camps.


K2 Permit Denied


Hopes of winter climbing K2 shattered when Denis Urubko received the final verdict from Chinese authorities on Dec 25th. Fragile security situation and terrorist attacks in Xinxiang province have been quoted as reason for permission denial. Denis proposed that the team would not stay in cities and would travel directly to K2 Basecamp. However, authorities didn’t agree. Email from travel agency read, “I officially inform you that we have to cancel the program and [we] hope to be in cooperation with you some other time. Please inform all your members and inform your cargo company to send back your equipment immediately!”


Nanga Parbat: Russians on Rupal Side


After last year’s unsuccessful attempt on Schell Route, both Simone Moro and Tomek Mackiewicz concluded that the route length makes it less feasible for winter climbing, where prolonged weather windows are nonexistent. However, four Russians Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval are all set for a light and fast go on the route. Their provisions include three camps (highest one at 7000m), a small tent for bivouacking during summit push and merely 500m ropes.

The team established C1 at around 5250m a couple of days ago before returning to BC for rest. Having reached Pakistan on Dec 24th, the team quickly set off towards Rupal valley. By 27th, they had reached Lattabo and accommodated inside their Base Camp at 3600m.


Diamir side Teams


There are two expeditions (or virtually three teams) on Diamir side, this winter. First expedition is a group of winter Nanga Parbat veterans; Tomek Mackiewicz (fifth attempt), Daniele Nardi (third attempt) and Elisabeth Revol (second attempt). Whereas Iranian climbers Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmoud Hashemi will be fresh faces in Nanga Parbat’s winter climbing history.


Tomek and Elisabeth


After reaching over 7200m on Schell route twice, Tomek Mackiewicz opted to climb from Diamir side, this year. Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol made it to 6400m on Mummery Rib in winter 2012-13, whereas Elisabeth didn’t come to Pakistan last year due to security concerns. The three climbers will be sharing BC, this season.

Tomek and Elisabeth started the Base Camp journey from Chilas on Dec 26th. After setting up BC and observing mountain conditions, the two have decided to climb the unfinished Messner-Hanspeter 2000 line. In his message from BC, Tomek says that the mountain is “bone dry” and they would want to avoid the main Diamir wall. The conditions are, as expected, extremely cold where the power equipment like batteries and generator often fail.

Daniele appreciated Elisabeth’s team spirit during their attempt on Mummery Rib. Now, Tomek also speaks of good companionship with her, "With Elisa, we get along well. Good player. Power. Together cool. Very nice person."


Daniele Nardi


The Italian climber, together with Roberto Delle Monache and Federico Santini, flew to Pakistan on Dec 28th. After spending a day in Islamabad, they flew to Gilgit on 30th and then drove to Chilas. The group shall be reaching Diamir BC, soon.

Daniele Nardi’s plan is to climb Mummery Rib. Roberto will accompany him on the route as a photographer. Federico’s tasks include videography and BC management.


Iranian Expedition


The team hasn’t shared details about the expedition, yet. However, they are expected to arrive in Pakistan by mid-January and climb on Diamir side of Nanga Parbat.



Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.



2014 Best of ExplorersWeb Interview Special: Koreans on Lhotse South Face


It's over: K2 winter permit scrubbed


Nanga Parbat Teams in Pakistan, K2 Climbers Hopeful


Russian team off to Nanga Parbat, route decided 


Weekend Heads-up and Season's Greetings from the Pyramid


Winter 2015: K2 Permit Issues, Three Teams Ready For Nanga Parbat


ExWeb Special: 2015 Everest and Himalaya Technology


ExWeb Special: 2015 Everest and Himalaya Mountaineers Tech


ExWeb interview with Simone Moro, "I'm going again"


Winter 2015: Tomek Mackiewicz Begins Acclimatization


K2 Winter Special: ExWeb Interview with Denis Urubko


History of Winter Climbing Nanga Parbat


History of Winter Climbing K2


Winter 2014/15: Preparations Underway for Exciting Ventures


K2 Winter: New Route and Two More Russians


Veteran trio to attempt K2 North Face



Tomek and Elisabeth's line is shown in blue (extreme left); Classic Kinshofer is in pink (right most). Red and Yellow ones are variants of Kinshofer.
Russian Winter Nanga Parbat Team
Italian climbers with Pakistani guides at Islamabad airport.