Trio Attempt Full Traverse of Chamlang

After climbing together on Shishapangma’s difficult south face and Gasherbrum IV, Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler are back in the Himalaya to complete the first traverse of 7,319m Chamlang. Andrés Marín of Colombia joins them on this endeavour.

Earlier this year, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák opened a new route on Chamlang, which was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1962 from the SW face. The traverse was first eyed by Reinhold Messner in 1981. Three years after Messner, Doug Scott, Michael Scott, Jean Afanasieff and Ang Phurba linked two of the peak’s three summits. Since then, completing the traverse of its summit ridge has drawn the interest of elite, alpine-style teams.

Yesterday, the climbers finished their acclimatization with a night at 6,000m and are now waiting on conditions. Chamlang is prone to avalanches after heavy snowfalls, and the team is open to exploring other options if the mountain remains too dangerous. Mainly, they want to work together to prepare for a new route on Cho Oyu in spring 2020.

Lack of options won’t be a problem. Chamlang is located in Makalu area, a relatively isolated zone with lots of new routes on peaks between 6,000m and 7,000m.

Note: Some inaccurate climbing facts have been corrected. The author thanks Damien Gildea for his help. 

Related stories:

The Inside Story of the New route on Chamlang

Chamlang: The Quiet Himalaya

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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